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Two Zips from One

When I buy zippers I usually get the 14" or 16" ones, and then they are long enough for most any project and can be cut down for anything smaller.  Since I mostly make small things, almost all of them end up quite a bit shorter, and I've just been throwing the extra away.

But today I was digging around in my zippers and found a small stash of pulls that go with this reel of Make-A-Zipper I've had f-o-r-e-v-e-r. 

It dawned on me those ends could be made into a new zipper by simply adding a pull!  They also look kind of neat with the contrasting pull. 

Zip pulls can be found in many larger sewing stores, or you can look online for them by searching for pulls or sliders. 

How to Install a Tuck Catch

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A few of my recent sewing projects have included a tuck catch closure and naturally people are curious about to attach them.

Tuck catches are simple to use and are one of those things that once you are looking at the pieces in person it makes sense how they go together.  But when looking at them online it might be hard to imagine how they work, so let me show you how it's done:

Supplies:

Tuck Catch - There are 4 parts: 1. tuck lock, 2. catch, 3. backing plate, 4. prong to hold the tuck lock in place.  

Fray Check -  Other seam sealants are probably ok too--I'm just not familiar with any other ones.  

Scissors & Awl - When installing the catch you can use scissors to cut the prong holes, but for the piece that holds the lock in place it easier to use an awl.  It's a small hole and often the fabric is thick.  The fine, sharp point of the awl is perfect!  My awl--which I like very much--is a Clover Straight Tailor's Awl.

Batting Scrap - This goes between the fabric and backing plate.  Scrap fabric is ok too. 

One Important Thing to Remember

The tuck lock will go into the catch from either direction, but only one way is the correct way.  The catch not only catches the lock, it also acts as a resting place for the lock and gives you something to push against when depressing the lock.  When the two parts are together, they need to look like the "yes" part in the photo above. 

Placing the Catch

For most projects you'll probably need to install the catch before you are finished sewing. 

Here I'm making a pouch that is just two main pieces (pouch & back/flap), and I'll need to put on the catch before attaching my pouch to the lining back/flap piece. 

To determine where the catch goes I need to figure out where the two pieces will meet when closed.  In my example, I'll finish the pouch, and then place the pouch portion on the lining.  My lining and exterior pieces are exactly the same, which I'm just ignoring the exterior piece for now. 

Then I'll temporarily attach the lock so I can accurately place the catch.  So I'm folding down the top flap portion into it's closed position, and I'm also folding up the edge of the fabric to mimic the seam allowance.  Finally I slide the lock over the fabric and push it onto the fabric as far as it will go. 

Then I snap the lock and catch together and see where the catch goes on the pouch. 

Once it's in centered in place I press the catch down gently so the prongs on the back leave impressions in the fabric to show me where to cut the prong holes.

Then I cut the prong holes (with scissors) through the exterior layer of fabric only and apply Fray Check to them:

Then I insert the catch prongs through the fabric, place the batting piece over them, and then add the backing plate and fold the prongs down to hold the plate in place:

Then I'll finish sewing until the entire pouch is done.  Once it's complete, it's time to attach the tuck lock. 

The lock just slides over the edge of the flap.  Once it's in place I mark where the prongs need to go and then use the awl to make the holes:

Once again, I apply Fray Check to the holes and then the final step is to slide the lock on, attach the prong piece, and fold the prongs back. 

All done! 

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Pre-Interfacing Fabric

I don't generally pre-interface fabrics (more about why shortly...), but I think it's a pretty common practice.  A search didn't turn up much info online, but perhaps my search terms need some improvement.

Anyway, I bet a lot of you already apply interfacing to your fabric and then cut out the pieces--at least some of the time.  With the card wallet pattern that is coming soon, pre-interfacing your fabric is a great option.

I've found myself pre-interfacing the fabric for these card wallets because the small pieces are just so much easier to cut out with some accuracy. 

It's is also great for using up small scraps of wrinkled interfacing.  You might have seen me mention I iron my interfacing on, rather than "pressing" it like the instructions indicate.  I've been ironing it on for years and years, and it works great. It doesn't matter how wrinkled a piece of interfacing gets, it can be ironed on and still get smooth results.  BTW, ironing interfacing on probably works best with woven interfacing and not the non-woven kind that is compressed fibers. 

In the past, I haven't been in the habit of pre-interfacing because it does waste some fabric and interfacing. For small things, the waste amount is minimal, but if you were to interface large sections of fabric you could end up with a lot of waste.  That would be sad. 

Plus I'm just stuck in my sewing ways!  But sometimes I do manage to break out of a rut and develop a new habit.  So at least with the really small things, pre-interfacing might be my new preferred method.  I'll probably still write the pattern instructions for cutting the pieces independently, but pre-interfacing is always an option. 

After some experimenting, here is the method I've found works best for me:

1. Place the pattern piece on the interfacing & cut around the general outline of the pattern piece. 

My pattern pieces are chipboard, so they are fairly rigid, which makes this part easy. If your pieces are paper, you might find it easier to trace an outline on the interfacing and then cut it out. 

I don't cut it the exact shape of the piece because it defeats the purpose of giving some extra stability when cutting the fabric pieces out.

Cutting each piece separately seems to go faster, and when using scraps, I can just compare the interfacing to my scrap fabric and see if it's going to fit.  I tried doing one bigger piece of interfacing that would fit all the pieces, but found myself digging around a lot trying to find a big enough piece of fabric, and it just didn't work out very often.  Plus the larger piece sometimes was an odd shape that didn't fit efficiently on the fabric and it seemed like I wasted more fabric. 

2. After applying the interfacing, cut the interfaced fabric sections away from any remaining fabric. 

I don't want to get this fabric out later and find interfacing adhered to it, and cutting the fabric/interfacing away before cutting out the pattern pieces is easier. 

3. Then just trace and cut out the piece(s).

Quick Tip for Joining Binding Strips Perfectly

How to Join Binding Strips Perfectly

This week I'm making some skinny binding to use in a special project with the paper pieced sewing machine.  There are some fun paper pieced projects out there, but the ways you might traditionally use the finished pieces are not really my style.  I like my wall hangings to be a bit more abstract and weird, my pillows basic patchwork or mostly solid, and my tote bags on the plain side. 

But I've been thinking about other ways to incorporate paper piecing into projects and have an idea for the sewing machine.  I think it is going to be both cute and useful!  When it's done I'll share what I've made. 

In the meantime, I have a trick for sewing binding together, and thought you might like to know about it too.

I enjoy the process of cutting, sewing and pressing binding.  Which is sort of funny because unless I'm binding something large/squarish (mostly quilts) projects requiring bound edges are not my favorite.  If I see a pattern for something small with bound edges, it kills my interest.  It just takes too much time and is really hard to do well.   

But binding most definitely has a place in sewing, and even though the process of joining the strips is easy, I've had my share of sewing misadventures when stitching the pieces together. 

So here is my trick for joining the strips together perfectly (i.e. straight). 

The usual way I see binding strips being joined is to match the edges of each piece at a 90 degree angle, and then sew them together on the diagonal:

The problem with this is it can be hard to get off to a smooth start when sewing the seam because there isn't a lot of stability with just the two layers of fabric.  Most of the time I get at least a small nest of tangled thread at the start and the end.  Starching the strips can help, but starch is always a last resort for me. 

Then if you don't sew just PERFECTLY to the bottom intersection where the pieces meet, the strips end up uneven.  Either the sides where they join are uneven, or the strips are not attached in one straight, continuous piece. 

In the past, when I used this method to sew binding I'd match the edges, look underneath to make sure I knew exactly where the seam needed to end, pin the pieces well, mark the seam, etc.  And still I'd end up with wacky strips! 

What I do now is super simple...Instead of matching the edges I overlap them a bit like this:

Having those extra bits of fabric along the sides gives stability and makes it a lot easier to start and end the seam.  Then I can also see exactly where the seam must end to have the strips joined perfectly.   

Once it is time to sew, it is really easy to just line the pieces up straight and sew straight down to the corner:

After stitching, I trim the extra fabric away and press the seam open.

The pieces are in pinned in the photos here, but usually I don't pin them.  The pins were really to remind myself to take pictures, and I forgot to take them out. You can of course pin if you need some extra stability. More and more, I'm trying to skip pins for the sake of efficiency.   

So next time you are joining fabric strips, give this a try.  There is no marking, no pinning, and they turn out perfect!

More Snap Info - Perfect Positioning

Back in January I wrote a pretty long post about using snaps and went over some of their good points, and options for attaching them.  This post talks how to place them on your projects. 

It is important to get them in the right place, and neatly installed.  They are very visible, which is part of their charm, and it's going to be obvious if they are crooked. 

It is simple to put them on neatly, but you'll need to take a few moments to determine exactly where they go.  I made a bunch of mistakes, so you can just read about them and then avoid making them yourself.

Before You Apply the Snaps

Long-Prongs - Use "long prong" snaps whenever possible.  The extra prong length is ideal when you have multiple layers because you can pre-set the caps by pushing the prongs through the fabric.  This makes it a lot easier to apply them exactly where you want them.

Be Gentle - Be gentle on the cap when squeezing the pliers.  You can be more aggressive with the stud, but you can squish the cap a bit if you are too firm.  At the end of the placement process I'll show you how I handle it if the snap parts aren't all the way together. 

Perfect Placement Positioning Process

Because the snaps are a fixed position they need to be attached with some accuracy. 

Between cutting and sewing things start to shift a bit, so I don't recommend using pattern guide marks to determine placement.  If a pattern comes with placement guide marks, take them as a suggestion, but determine where they really need to be by placing them on your finished project and looking at them.

Below is the general process I use for determining where to place the caps (cap/socket) & studs (stud/prong ring). 

1. Decide where they look good.  

They look a little different the closer/further they are apart, so I just look and move them around until they look good to me. 

After deciding on the cap placement, lift up the flap and make sure the studs are going to be in a place where you can apply them.  Most of the time there won't be a problem, but do check so you don't run into an instance where it is difficult/impossible to get the studs in place.

2. Double check the distance between the sides of the flap and bottom of the snap are equal. 

You don't want to apply them and then realize one is higher than the other, or closer to the side of the flap.  I've had to reapply a number of them because I didn't take a minute to make sure they were evenly placed on the flap.  :0[

Now I look at the distance from the sides and bottom of the flap (or any other applicable reference points), and sometimes I measure if I'm not fairly certain things are even. 

3. Apply the cap(s) by pushing the prongs through the fabric, then loading the socket into the pliers, and placing the pliers over the cap.  

When I first started using the snaps, I'd load both the cap and socket into the pliers and then try to aim for a predetermined spot.  But the cap covers up your marked spot and it is hard to judge the center of the cap since you are looking at the pliers from the side.  So put the cap on the fabric and then place the pliers (with the loaded socket) over the cap.

4. Mark and apply the stud(s).   

After applying the caps, close the flap and mark the position for one stud. Do just one first--even if you have two or more to apply.

I mark the position by first folding up the sides of the fabric right next to the socket, and marking that spot with a pin or fabric marker.  Then I do the bottom in the same way.

Then I apply the stud using the pins/marks as my guide. 

If I have two studs to apply I close the flap and snap the applied cap/stud set together.  With the first snap closed, I fold up the other side of the flap and mark the placement for the second stud. 

After replacing a bunch of studs I learned it works best to do them one at a time.  If you try to mark and apply both studs at once, you can easily end up with a bunched up or stretched flap.  Small differences in the stud placement = wonky looking flaps.  So go slow and do them one at a time for best results.

Finishing

Now if you were gentle with your pliers your snaps probably look fantastic, but the parts might need some additional squishing to make sure they are really attached well. 

I cover the front and back with scrap fabric and use regular pliers to gently squeeze the front and back together around the edges.

 

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Everything I Know About Snaps (So Far)

I've used prong style snaps on a few things lately, and a couple people wrote asking some questions about using them.  So here is some info if you are curious about using them (see the sequel to this post here).

This won't go over the basic installation instructions, because whatever tool you use will come with its own instructions.  This is more about the snaps in general, some tools you can use to install them, the pliers I use, and some other tips from my own experience.

General Stuff

These snaps are fantastic for a bunch of reasons:

• Economical - Packaged snaps run about $3.50 - $4.50 for sets of 10 - 12.  If you buy them online, you can sometimes get even better prices if you buy them in larger quantities. 

• Easy to Find - The Dritz ones are very widely available and I see more and more of the Snap Source snaps in shops.  Just about every fabric store has at least a small selection of snaps.

• Variety - They come in a variety of sizes/styles/colors.  Some are really basic, and a bunch are more decorative.  The size refers to the size of the cap.  The larger the number, the bigger the cap.  Personally, I like the "jumbo" size 24 ones for accessories.  The Snap Source Long-Prong jumbo snaps are my current favorite. 

• Washable - Most can be machine washed and are rust proof.  The package generally states "machine washable" if you need this feature.

• Replaceable - If one happens to have a problem, remove it and replace it.

• Quick to Install - It takes under a minute to add them once you have the process down.  Usually they'll go on at the very end of your project, and it is just very satisfying to get them on so quickly and be done!

The Parts

There are four parts:

1. Cap (aka: Decorative Prong) - Top of the snap.

2. Socket - Accepts the stud and also holds the cap in place.

3. Stud - Goes in the socket.

4. Open-Prong Ring - Holds the stud in place.

Some Tool Options

There are different options for installing them.  Sometimes you can find kits with a basic tool included, but usually you'll need a separate tool or method of applying them.  Here are some options:

• No Tool - I've heard of people using a wooden spool and a hammer.  It sounds like no fun to me and isn't a method I'd personally recommend or try.  But hey, if want to try it, go for it!  Most methods just need some practice to get used to and this low tech, and inexpensive option, might be just what you need. 

• Plastic Snap Installation Tools - Perhaps these have a name?  All I know is they are not my favorite snap setting tool. Several years ago when I bought my first snaps, I went ahead and bought the plastic tools for 3 sizes of snaps (each size requires its own special attachment).  Then I proceeded to smash the top of every snap I used them on.  I don't like them, but do think with more practice I might have made it beyond the smashing stage.  However, for the price of multiple tools and all the practice time, I still think the next option makes more sense...

• Dritz Snap Pliers - This is the next step on the snap tool ladder, and perfect for anyone who uses snaps occasionally to fairly regularly.  The pliers cost around $20 and are widely available.  They are useful for several snaps sizes and styles, and also install eyelets. 

• Snap Press - This is the pinnacle of snap installation. If you use snaps regularly, this is probably what you'll eventually need.  These snaps are very addicting, so you could find yourself at the snap press stage pretty quickly.  I don't really know much about snap presses.  Perhaps someone with a press will leave a comment and tell us a little about them.

• Kit with Tool - I haven't tried out these heavy duty snaps yet, but they came with a tool similar to what you might use to install a grommet. 

Just looking at it, I'm pretty sure there will be some smashed snaps at first.  The black thing is hard plastic, but I'll make an effort to be gentle.  I will report back after trying these out...

Dritz Snap Pliers

So these are what I have and here are some general tips for using them:

Before opening the package, write the snap sizes on the back with the instructions. 

The text showing the sizes is under the plastic part of the package and rips off with the plastic.

For the longest time, I had no idea what size snaps these worked with besides #16!  Guess I could have looked at a picture of them online, but I didn't.  When I went to Bolt the other day, I spent some time looking at the package front and discovered they also worked with "jumbo" snaps.     

Keep the instructions.  I still look at them every time, but I'm getting closer to having it down.  If I don't use them for several months though, I'll probably forget.  

Don't lose the yellow adapter.  This is what you need for larger snaps.  It is just a tiny plastic part, so keep it safe.  After looking at the pliers at Bolt, I thought for sure I'd lost the yellow adapter, since I hadn't seen it since opening the package 2+ years ago.  But it was in my sewing room and now it's being stored with the pliers and snaps. 

Load the pronged parts into the pliers last.  Then you won't scratch up your fingers when you load the stud or socket parts.  Learned this the hard way...and it took multiple snaps to finally get it.

Practice.  These take a firm, but gentle approach.  With too much pressure, the pearl snaps crack and the metal snaps dent.  You will get the feel for it with some practice. 

Sometimes you might find they need just a little more squeeze after you've installed them.  Cover the snap with a scrap of fabric or batting and give them another pinch around the edges using regular pliers. 

You might also keep a practice snap installed on a scrap of fabric with your snap tools and parts for reference.  It's helpful to have an installed one to look at if you get confused about the parts.

Pay attention to the socket.  This piece is the part I had a hard time seeing which side is which.  Now I know that the part that looks like a flower is the side the stud goes into and the other side is where the prongs enter to hold it in place.

Snap Placement 

The last bit of advice I have is to consider where these will be placed.  The pouch in the photos above has quite a long flap, so my first attempt at adding the snaps to the pouch portion was tricky. 

They needed to be placed fairly low down on the pouch so I had to get a lot of fabric into the pliers.  It was not easy, but now I see that folding the fabric down helps a lot. 

Since I like to add the snaps to the flap first, this was something that didn't cross my mind until it was too late. 

Just keep in mind there will only be so much fabric you can get into the pliers to install the snap parts.  The eyelet installation part gets in the way and there is only so much space in the pliers.  The closer the snaps can be to the edge, the easier it is going to be to install them.

Happy snapping!