Ok, it's time to sew! Today we'll sew the skirt front.
Things You Need to Know
Seam Allowance (SA) - 0.5"
RS/RST - Right Side(s)/Right Sides Together
Topstitch - Use a longer stitch length (2.8 - 3.0) and stitch at 1/4", or your preferred allowance. I like to double topstitch the pocket openings because it makes them nice and firm, and if I'm using contrast thread sometimes I double stitch the yoke seams too so they match the pocket openings.
The seam allowance is 0.5", which to me seems HUGE since I'm used to sewing accessories that don't need such a big allowance. I'm not great at sewing such large allowances accurately. If you aren't either, don't worry...when we are sewing something this big there's some room to be not-so-perfect with the seams.
On the other hand, the more accurate you are, the nicer your skirt is going to turn out.
So if you need some additional help, or your plate marks aren't that easy to see, place a Post It note along the 0.5" mark to make it really obvious. The 0.5" mark on my throat plate stops just above my presser foot and then restarts at the bottom of the plate. When I'm going around these pockets I can't see it at all, so I use the Post It trick to keep me track.
1. Sew D to B
a) Match D pieces RST with B and sew them together. A pin at the bottom of each D piece will help stabilize the pieces while you sew.
b) Clip the curves.
2.Topstitch Pocket Openings
a) Press D pieces to the back of B. Unless you want some of the D print to peek over the pocket edges, which can be a sweet detail that looks like piping, make sure the edges of D are rolled to the back of B and pressed out of sight.
b) Topstitch around the pocket openings. Again, a pin or two at the pocket bottoms will help hold them stable while sewing.
3. Sew C to D
a) Place C RST with D and sew them together--sewing only through the C & D pieces (i.e. don't sew them to B). Sew as far as you can up the sides of the pockets, but this part of each pocket will also be caught in the the side seams of the skirt later (1/17/15), so don't worry about totally closing off the pockets at the sides.
b) Finish the seams. Again, the sides will be caught and finished when we sew the side seams of the skirt, so you don't need to go all the way up the sides.
c) Press the pockets flat and pin them at the bottom to hold them to B.
d) Baste the pockets to the sides and top of B to hold them in place.
4. Sew A to B
a) Pin A to B. Match the center of A to the center of B, and pin out to each side. If you end up with some extra A at the ends, that's ok. Since the fabric isn't interfaced, it can stretch. You can trim the sides up to match after the next step.
b) Sew A to B.
c) Finish the seam.
5. Topstitch A
a) From the RS, press A away from B so the A/B seam is pressed to the A side.
b) Topstitch the seam on the A side.
c) If the ends of A are slightly longer than the top of B, trim the sides so the pieces match.
Alright, I'll be back tomorrow and we'll sew the skirt back and put in the invisible zipper!
Skirt Sew Along Schedule
1/2/15 - taking measurements
1/3/15 - shopping list
1/9/15 - preparing the pattern pieces & making fit adjustments
1/10/15 - cut pieces
1/11/15 - seam finishes
1/15/15 - sew skirt front
1/16/15 - sew back, install invisible zipper
1/17/15 - sew front to back, fit adjustments
1/18/15 - finish waist, hem
1/23/15 - bonus post - making a fully lined skirt
