Hi Sew Along ladies: I need to spread the remaining posts a little bit more. The information originally scheduled for this post was seam finishing, sewing the skirt front, and sewing the skirt back. Which is too much to cover in one post and it looks like people need more time for fitting alterations. On Thursday we'll start sewing. Sorry for the change! Once we get sewing it will go really fast and your skirt will be done. :0]
1/15/15 - Sew skirt front
1/16/15 - Sew back & install zipper
1/17/15 - Sew front to back, make fit adjustments
1/18/15 - Finish waist & hem
1/23/15 - Making a lined skirt
_ _ _
Below is specific seam finishing information for the skirt we are making. There are lots of other ways to finish seams, but many are pretty time consuming, so I'll focus on the easiest and most basic options.
If you want some guidance, I think the following combination will give you a nicely finished skirt, and also give you a chance to try out two different ways of finishing your seams:
• zigzag (or overcast) all seams except the CB
• bind the CB seam edges with rayon seam binding
When to Finish Seams
Most pattern instructions don't tell you when it's time to finish your seams. Seam finishing might be referred to in some general language at the beginning, but the specifics of how/where/when will be left up to you to figure out.
Until you have some solid clothing sewing experience, knowing when it's time to finish a seam may not be obvious. So while we're sewing I'll let you know when it's time to finish a seam.
Why Finish Seams
Finished seams look better, but more importantly, the finish helps keep the fabric from fraying, which doesn't look great and can eventually lead to the holes. Wear and tear + repeated washing can be pretty rough on the fabric, so finishing the seams will help your garment last longer.
Ways to Finish Seams
There are lots of options for how to finish seams. I'll go over the easiest ones for this particular skirt, and focus on the simple zig zag stitch since it's something everyone will be able to do with a basic sewing machine.
Serger
If you have a serger, that's fantastic! A serger makes it fast and easy to finish seams. If you end up getting really into making your own clothing, at some point you'll probably want to get a serger.
Since it's a special machine, I'm going to assume most people don't have one, and won't go into details.
But I do want to mention a special foot called a "cutter foot", which does something similar to a serged edge.
I haven't used a cutter foot, but if I didn't have a serger, I would definitely give it a try. It looks like they are in the $10 - $40 range, while a serger is several hundred dollars (or more).
This cutter foot on amazon has lots of reviews and they're a mix of good and bad, but average out to a solid 3.5 stars.
Anyway, the cutter foot might be something you want to consider for the future if you really want an overcast and trimmed edge, but aren't quite ready to get a serger.
Pinking
Cutting out your pieces with pinking shears is one of the most basic way of finishing seams, and can be a fine option for a first skirt/wearable muslin.
However, cutting fabric with pinking shears can be hard on your hands. Anyone with wrist/hand issues should avoid pinking, and for everyone else, a good pair of pinking shears will make make it easier.
Gingher's pinking shears are a nice investment because they can be sharpened. I have a pair and use them pretty regularly for notching curves. They are VERY stiff when you first get them, but they loosen up.
Zigzag Stitch
A simple zigzag stitch is fine for finishing seams where you have two layers of fabric. If there aren't two layers of fabric, it can be challenging or impossible.
For this skirt, the only single layer seam we need to finish is both sides of the CB. After this section I'll an option for using fusible interfacing to either finish, or help finish, the CB seam.
Here you can see the zigzag looks just pretty good with two layers of fabric, but with the single layer, it starts off ok, and quickly goes wrong:
If you are going to use a zigzag stitch for finishing your seams make a test swatch with two layers of your fabric. Stitch at least 2" or 3" and see how the fabric responds.
Ideally you would sew with the zigzag right up to the edge, or over the edge of the fabric. But sometimes that doesn't work perfectly, even with a couple layers of fabric.
Try changing the stitch width and see if that helps.
Otherwise, sew the zigzag slightly away from the edge of the fabric. This usually helps a lot. The extra fabric at the edge can be trimmed away afterward, or just leave it and the edge will get slightly fuzzy over time. Avoiding the frustration of bunched up seams, or jamming your machine, is worth a few minutes of trimming or some slightly fuzzy seams.
Overcast Stitch
Overcast stitches are similar to a zigzag, but more complicated stitches, so they're more stable. There are a few different overcast stitches. Check your machine manual to see there are any available on your machine and give them a try.
The overcast stitch on my machine does a better job than the zigzag, but the extra part of the stitch makes it slow going. I'm not sure I'd want to wait it out and would most likely go back to the faster zigzag stitch.
Interfacing
Interfacing is an option for the single layer of fabric at the CB seam.
The idea is to apply a 0.25" wide strip of fusible interfacing along the edges where the fabric is only one layer.
Rather than trying to cut a 20"+ super thin strip of continuous interfacing, you can patch together some shorter strips. Once the seam is pressed open, the interfacing isn't visible:
Then if you want to stitch the interfacing down (you don't have to), the fabric should now be stable enough for a zigzag stitch, or you can use a simple straight stitch to secure it in place.
I know someone who uses this method all the time and she says it doesn't come off if it isn't sewn down. Personally, I'd probably stitch it down because it would bug me if I didn't sew it down.
Rayon Seam Binding
Rayon seam binding is a great looking seam finish! It's not hard, but it takes some time.
As mentioned above, I think it's a good option for the CB seam. This is the seam you'll notice the most when putting the skirt on and taking it off, and the bound edges look very polished.
You can bind all of your seams with it (though I'd skip the curved pocket edges), but if you don't want to make the time commitment, using it only on the CB seam will give you a chance to try it out and see if you like working with this type of seam finish.
To use it, you'd cut pieces a few inches longer than your seams and then press the binding in half. Then wrap it around the edge of the fabric and stitch it down. Pretty easy!
Ok, sorry for the slight schedule change! I'll be back on Thursday and we'll get down to sewing.
Michelle
1/2/15 - taking measurements
1/3/15 - fabric shopping
1/9/15 - preparing the pattern pieces & making fit adjustments
1/10/15 - cut pieces
1/11/15 - seam finishes
1/15/15 - Sew skirt front
1/16/15 - Sew back & install zipper
1/17/15 - Sew front to back, make fit adjustments
1/18/15 - Finish waist & hem
1/23/15 - Making a lined skirt
