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How to Install the 2" Eyelet in the Strap Clutch

 

As promised, here are instructions for installing the 2" eyelet as the strap opening for this clutch.

These eyelets are easy to use & you will feel confident with these in no time at all.  If you are concerned about making a mistake your first time through, you can do a test run with some fabric and batting first.  Just skip the glue part and then you can take it back out and reuse it.

The key to these is to minimize fraying of the fabric and to have the flap--or wherever it's being installed--be as thick as the eyelet channel. 

What You Need:

• 2" eyelet
• magnet - I'm using one off my fridge.  Any size magnet is fine--it is used for safekeeping for the tiny screws so they don't get lost. 
• sharp scissors that can handle detail work
• scrap of batting or fleece about 3.75" wide x 2" high (10cm x 5cm)
• glue - I'm using E-6000. Gutermann Textile Glue (HT2), UHU All Purpose Glue, or any other glue compatible with fabric & metal will also work.
• Fray Check
• tweezers can be helpful for picking up the tiny screws
• very small screwdriver - sorry, I don't know the technical size.  The smallest screwdriver in a 5-in-1 hammer is what I'm using.  Eyeglass screwdrivers will probably work too.
• fabric marking pen or chalk
• ruler

1. Take Eyelet Apart

a) Remove the two screws from the back & put them on the magnet for safe keeping.  If possible, take them out in a confined area where they can't fly across the room and roll away under something. 

2. Trace Opening Outline

a) Center the front half of the eyelet on the RIGHT side of the exterior fabric of the flap, with the bottom edge of eyelet 1" above the bottom of the flap.

b) Trace around the inside of the opening. 

3. Trim

a) Trim around outline draw in previous step, cutting through one layer of fabric at a time, and trimming slightly outside the outline. You will probably have to trim more later, but it best to start small. 

b) Cut through the batting layer, following the outline trimmed in a). 

c) Cut through the lining layer, following the outline trimmed in b). 

d) Place front eyelet piece under the opening to see how it fits.  Slowly trim more away until it fits. 

e) Trim tiny notches from each side so you can see the screw holes.

4. Trim & Apply Batting Scrap

a) Trace the outline of the eyelet center on the batting piece and trim an opening in the batting scrap. This piece is going to go around the opening to build up some thickness to stabilize the eyelet.

b) Place the batting scrap in the middle of the flap, and align it over the opening trimmed in step #3.  If you can no longer see the screw holes, trim some batting away until you can see them. 

5. Apply Fray Check

a) Apply a thin layer of Fray Check around the opening on both sides of the flap to stabilize the fabric.

6. Apply Glue

a) Dab small dots of glue around the inside of both eyelet pieces. 

b) Place the front piece on the exterior side of the flap, and the back piece on the lining side. 

c) Line up screw holes and screw the eyelet together tightly. 

That's it!  Allow glue to dry for a bit and you are ready to go.

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Adding More Padding to Flap on the Strap Clutch

Today I made this strap clutch and added another layer of batting to the flap.  I went back and forth whether to do this in the pattern, but in the end I didn't because the opening gets harder to sew the more layers of fabric you have in there.  So I'll leave this as a personal preference and show it here for anyone who wants to add another layer. 

Before adding this layer, go ahead and sew through (5.j) where you've made the openings on the A pieces and done everything except sew the facing pieces down (5.k). 

Cut one piece A of interlining from batting/fleece/flannel or whatever you'd like to use. Place either the exterior flap A piece or lining A piece over the A interlining and trace around the strap opening outline.

Cut around the line about an extra 1/4" and trim the top corners of the piece just like you did for the interlining B pieces for the clutch body:

Then place this piece on the wrong side of either the exterior flap A or lining A.  Pull the facing piece E through the opening of the interlining, smooth it in place and then sew around the opening.  

You might want to trim the bottom of the facing to keep it out of seam at the bottom before sewing the A pieces together (6.c.).  After you've sewn the seam around the sides and bottom, trimming any extra interlining back to close to the stitching will help make topstitching around the flap easier.

Tomorrow I'm taking pictures of how to install an eyelet for the opening. 

 

Clark Kent The Cat Sewing Fridge Magnet

This hilarious magnet came to my attention when someone in my etsy circle marked it as a favorite.  I find it funny the cat's name is Clark Kent, that he is wearing a sweater and sitting at a sewing machine. The description mentions he didn't much mind making the pet toys, but he looks a bit vexed to me. It is probably the itchy sweater...

There is some funny stuff on etsy.  I also enjoy the slightly off-kilter bird magnets from Mincing Mockingbird, and 3crows always gives me a laugh. She has a whole theme about a cat and crow who live together with their pet man named Bob. 

Does anyone else have any funny favorites from etsy to share?

 

It's Ready!

Ok, I just finished up all the details and the new pattern is ready to go! 

The description is pretty bare bones right now...I can barely spell my name at this point :0].  I'll come back and add more later. 

Let me know if you have questions or problems.

 

Sew-in Interfacing

I'm getting close to being done with the new pattern!  It will probably be ready this evening, or tomorrow mid-morning.

The new pattern is written using a mix of both sew-in and fusible interfacing. Each has its own qualities, and as I've learned more about sewing, I sometimes use both in one project.

From what I can tell, many people are more comfortable and familiar with fusible. But sew-in interfacing has some wonderful qualities, so I wanted to share my thoughts for those of you who are interested in hearing more.

First off, if you don't have sew-in interfacing available, you can use scrap fabric. 

If you are like me, you might have some "what was I thinking when I bought this print???" fabric in your stash.  That is perfect to use as a substitute for sew-in interfacing!  Just make sure any print won't show through the fabrics on exterior of lining of whatever you are sewing.

You can also repurpose old sheets, shirts, or other pieces of clothing as sew-in interfacing.  This is a great way to incorporate some recycling in your projects, while also having the benefit of using new materials for the exterior.

Here are some other things I like about sew-in interfacing:

• You can trim it away from the allowance after sewing to ease bulk from the seams.  A lot of the time you can accomplish this with fusible by cutting the interfacing pieces slightly smaller in the first place.  But sometimes--like with these faced handles--it is just going to be easier to trim after sewing. 

• You don't have to worry about incompatibility with your fabric.  With fusible, if your interfacing is too heavy or light for your fabric, it is going to wrinkle and peel away.

• Sew-in tends to launder better, so I like it for anything I might want to machine wash. 

• It can feel heavier than fusible. Fusible gives fabric a crisp feeling, but if you use a layer or two of sew-in it can provide a feeling of being heavier and more substantial. Air gets in between the layers and fluffs it up a bit. This can be helpful with small things where you might want a weightier feel, but adding padding is going to make sewing more challenging, or distort the way the finished item looks.   

There are many different brands of interfacing available.  I buy interfacing at my local fabric store, so I don't have an online source to recommend.  My favorite sew-in interfacing is Form-Flex woven, but it is hard to find.  Some other similar woven sew-in interfacings are: Veri-Shape Durable Press, ARMO Press Firm and Stitch n Sew Firm.

If you are wondering why I don't specify brands in my patterns it is because interfacing choice is partly a personal preference, the fabric you are using can be a factor, and not every brand of interfacing is available world-wide.

If you need help matching interfacing to your fabric, you might ask for help at your local fabric store.

You can also check the end of the interfacing bolt for more info.  Many will say what type of fabric it is used with, and what type of support it provides.  My favorite interfacing is sometimes out of stock, so I look for another one that says something like: "For light to medium weight woven fabrics. Provides firm support."

 

Kokka Dress Up Dolly

 

Kokka Dress Up Dolly