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More Topstitching Tips

This week a couple readers wondered if I had any more topstitching tips. 

Many of you know that I consider topstitching an important step in finishing sewn items.  Personally, I wouldn't buy something that didn't have topstitched seams along the edges.  It looks unfinished to me and the topstitching acts as a reinforcement to the seam.  

I know it can be challenging, but finding a way to get good results in topstitching is definitely rewarding.  So here are some more techniques that might help you conquer the topstitch.

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Guides

Find a guide you feel comfortable using and like how the stitch looks on your finished project.  Three options are offered below.  Generally the closer you are to the edge of the fabric, the harder it is going to be to topstitch.  So #1 here would be easiest, and #3 hardest:

1. Use the edge of your presser foot.  Depending on your presser foot, this is probably about 1/4" - 3/8".  Too wide for your tastes?  Take a look at #2 & #3.

2. Find a marking on your presser foot to use as a guide.  My presser foot has two grooves on each side.  I often use the groove on the right side as a topstitching guide.  On my machine it is about a 1/4", and it is very easy to watch and keep my fabric in line with the groove.

3. Use the right edge of the needle hole as a topstitching guide.  This is what I use when I want to topstitch really close to the edge. One my machine it is about 1/8".  If I actually look at the 1/8" mark on my machine, my topstitching quickly gets off course.  I came to the conclusion that the closer the guide is to your needle, the easier it is to follow (at least for me).

Trimming/Clipping/Notching

Getting rid of bulk in the seams can help with topstitching.  If there is a lot of fabric bunched up along the seam, your topstitching is going to get choppy. 

1. Trim any sew-in interfacing, batting or interlining back close to the seam.

2. Trim the seam allowance back to about 1/4" around any curves. 

3. Try notching the curves.  This is something I used to meticulously do on all convex (outward) curves.  Then one day I stopped because I was tired of all that notching and the little scrappy triangles it created!  

What I discovered is that most of the curves on my designs are not so sharp that they have to be notched.  It was such a time consuming chore, that I quickly learned to skip it.  But it is an option. Pinking shears can make the job faster (but even messier).

Spring Picnic by Natalie Jost

Umbrellas Blue by Natalie Jost ~ available at Spoonflower

Right now, I wish I had a giant umbrella that would cover my whole back yard so the grass could dry out.  It is alternately sunny/pouring/hailing and my grass just keeps growing and growing and growing.  It is going to be frighteningly hard to mow!

Oh well, that is spring.  I can't have a giant umbrella, but this umbrella print makes me want to sew a tote bag for carrying my regular umbrella around.  Even though it has a carrying strap, I still like to take it in a tote bag.  I've left behind plenty of umbrellas in my time, and I'm far less likely to forget a bag.  It is also great to have a bag handy for when it stops raining and you want somewhere dry to put the umbrella.

It would be fun to have a special umbrella bag.  I've almost talked myself into ordering this fabric...

Learning to Love Hand Stitching

Right now I'm working on a project that requires quite a bit of hand stitching.  I'm really excited about the project because it is a great way to use up scraps and it is just very, very neat.  Once I'm done, I'll tell you more about it.  Sometimes the excitement of a project wears off and I decide it isn't doable in the end.  Don't want to get you all jazzed up for nothing...

But I wanted to ask what everyone thinks of hand stitching?  I used to dread it, but once I got good at it, and had reliable results, that all changed.  Now I look forward to it, since I usually sit and do it while watching movies on my computer (no tv). It is a time for me to relax.

If you aren't fond of sewing by hand and find it frustrating, I just wanted to point out a two blog posts you might find helpful:

How to Slip Stitch

Another Tip for Closing the Opening

So do you hate hand stitching, love it, or have you just accepted it as a necessary evil of sewing?

   

Flower in Sky by Momo

 

Here is another pretty print designed by Momo for Moda.  The collection is called Freebird and this print is "Flower". 

I like the pairing of the orange and blue in this print.  Orange is one of those colors I like in small doses.  There is just enough orange in this print to liven it up, without it being the dominant color. 

New Pattern - Bracelet Bag

Ok, all done!  The pattern is available here, but is not posted in my shop etsy yet.  I'll add it to etsy tomorrow.  Must take a break now...

Bracelet Bag - Pattern Notes

Getting closer to being done!  I wanted to add some notes here.  This is all the extra stuff I want to tell you, explaining why I did something the way I did it, or offering some alternative ways of handling the construction.  

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Skill Level

This pattern has challenging curves and the handles require attention to detail.  It is recommended for those with sewing experience.  If you are brand new to sewing, come back and try this one once you are comfortable with curves. 

If you have sewing experience, this is a fun bag to make and a great way to show off your sewing skills! 

If you find curves challenging, you might want to practice the circle on scrap fabric first.  Make sure to use two layers of fabric.  This will give you a more accurate feel for what it is like sewing these handles, and it will help stabilize your pieces. 

Handles

The handle construction is essentially the same as for the Dewdrop Handbag and the Charm School Handbag. 

I did make one change that helped the handles line up perfectly!  Instead of machine sewing a second time around the handles to sew the focus fabric and lining layers together, I slip stitched them together by hand.  They really did come out pretty perfect and I found it easier to sew than trying to go through all those layers by machine.

If you really don't like hand sewing, you can still machine sew around them a second time.  Keep in mind the fabric is going to be really thick. One thing you can do to help making this easier is trim the interfacing layers back close to the stitching around the handle cut outs.  Do this after step 3. l) and before clipping the curves in the next step. 

If you are slip stitching the handles together, leave the interfacing in place.  It helps give a little additional structure to the handles.  

When sewing the circle, just go as slow as you need.  If you get off track, simply resew that section of the circle.  If you do resew parts of the circle, remove any errant stitches that end up INSIDE the circle outline or really off track on the outside of the circle.  Minor wonky stitching outside the circle outline shouldn't affect your handle. 

Interfacing

Like the other bags with these cut-out handles, I recommend sew-in interfacing.  If you use sew-in, you can trim it is you want to ease some bulk from the handles for machine sewing.  Sew-in also means the bag is machine washable. 

If you want to use fusible interfacing, I recommend following the pattern instructions and slip stitch the handles together.  If you want to machine sew the handles together, I don't recommend fusible interfacing (see the Handles section above).

Fabric

The instructions are written for using medium weight quilting cottons.  If you use a heavier fabric for the focus fabric, you might want to skip interfacing the two focus fabric A pieces. 

Button/VELCRO

A small VELCRO tab is used for the outside pocket.  VELCRO is used for this bag because it doesn't require as exact of placement as a snap.  The pocket is two pieces, and using VELCRO (yes, the maker requests you spell it like this...) gives some flexibility with the flap placement.  

You can always use a magnetic snap, a button/loop closure, a button and button hole or some other closure.  The instructions aren't included for these though. 

Pattern Pieces

You'll probably notice the very first pattern piece is printed on the page at an angle.  It fits the margins better, but wow, was it hard to get the text lined up!   This piece is half of the top.  It needs to be taped to the bottom half to create the full piece.  

Piece E is the handle outline template only, and no fabric needs to be cut for this piece.  There are two small marks at the top and bottom.  These are to help you center the handle piece.