Well this has been a long time coming, but I finally added the pattern pieces for the second size to the Zip Pocket Pouch Wristlet pattern.
The second size has been available separately here, but now both sizes are included in this pattern. If you already have this pattern, but not the second size, you can order the document with Size 2 pieces and info here.
So this is a good time to talk about this pattern again. These bags are really quite simple to make and this is the easiest zipper installation of all my zipper patterns. It's just so, so easy. I don't recommend this pattern for beginners, but if you are getting pretty comfortable sewing, but haven't tried a zipper yet, this is a great project to give zippers a try.
These also don't take long to sew. If you are fairly experienced making accessories, this is a 2 or 3 hour project.
Size 1 is a good size for many phones, Moleskine Pocket Cahier journals, or to use as a small clutch/wallet. The main pouch will hold a phone up to 5.5" x 3.5". The zippered pocket will hold a phone up to 4.87" h x 2.31" w x 0.30" deep (iPhone SE or smaller).
Size 2 will hold a tablet computer or journal measuring up to 7.5" x 10" and up to 0.5" deep. So this will work for an iPad 2, 3, 4, or 5. Photos show it with an iPad 3. It will also hold an Extra Large Moleskine Cahier or a composition notebook (aka: exercise notebook).
Swivel Clip (aka: Lobster Clip)
The pattern is written for a swivel clip (aka: lobster clip) with a 0.5" attachment point and a 0.25" opening. If you want to use other clips, cut the strap piece 4x the width of the attachment point and cut the footing piece 4x the opening measurement.
Size 2 Lining
Since Size 2 is quite a bit larger than Size 1, you can quilt lining D and the muslin/fleece D pieces together with a few stitching lines to hold all the layers together. It's not required though. In the photo above, you can see where I've quilted down the middle and then once to each side. It takes close to no time at all.
You can also add more interfacing and/or fleece to Size 2 if you want more structure. Interfacing can be added to lining A and/or lining B. You can also use fleece on lining B to provide more padding. If you use fleece, cut away both top corners of the fleece B to remove some bulk from behind the zipper ends.
I've made a bunch of these using a piece of patchwork for the lining D piece. This isn't in the pattern, but it's simple to do if you have experience foundation piecing together fabrics for patchwork.
Before I tell you how I make patchwork lining, keep in mind these instructions reference steps in the Zip Pocket Pouch Wristlet pattern, but can be used for other things. Just ignore the pattern step references and follow the general idea.
One last consideration is that it's best if the patchwork seams do NOT intersect the snaps on D. Just mark them on the muslin so you know to avoid having seams in that general area.
Here's how I make the patchwork lining for these pouches:
- Cut the fleece piece out using the D pattern piece.
- Trim fleece D following the steps in 4.a - 4.c.
- Rough cut a piece of muslin 0.25" larger than D.
- Foundation piece scraps of fabric together until the entire muslin piece is covered.
- Center the trimmed fleece on the WS of the patchwork/muslin piece and fuse it in place. Make sure to use a press cloth over the fleece so it doesn't melt on your iron.
- On the RS, center the D pattern piece on the patchwork. Take a look at the back to see if D is fairly centered over the fleece piece.
- Trace the pattern piece D outline on the patchwork.
- Quilt the patchwork. Quilting is optional, but I almost always stitch around the pieces because I like how it looks.
- Baste 1/8" inside the D outline. This part is NOT optional. The patchwork seams will split open and it can cause you problems while sewing. Don't skip this one!
- Cut out the D piece.